Namrata Kohli | New Delhi
Food is not just fuel (for the body) or nutrition, but food is art, history and culture. So, the other day when I was invited for an ISSEI pop-up featuring Nikkei cuisine at Radisson Blu Plaza Delhi Airport, I was intrigued by what on earth is ISSEI and what exactly is this Nikkei cuisine. Well, ISSEI (which literally means first generation Japanese immigrants) I figured out was the name of one of Dubai’s leading Peruvian Restaurant which was collaborating with Radisson Blu in Delhi. Nikkei cuisine is an exquisite fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours much like niche fusion food such as Tex-Mex or French-Vietnamese, which trace origins in colonial history.
I did not know that Peru has the second largest ethnic Japanese population in South America after Brazil. It fascinated me how Japanese in the far east started migrating to this small Latin American haven. Many came in search of plantation, and even to own a piece of land which they could call their own or in search of gold. Nikkei cuisine, in a nutshell, marries Peruvian cuisine with Japanese – both regions have similarities in that they are coastal areas, and offer a large variety of seafood, rice, curry-based dishes.
For me the biggest highlight of this cuisine was that despite being coastal cuisine, there were many things even for a vegetarian like me. I especially liked this exotic sounding and delectable dish namely Purple Potato Carpaccio served with Andean sauce which was a blend of special spices from Nikkei cuisine like the Aji Amarillo chilli, rocoto chilli, Peruvian black mint, garlic, ginger, lemon and oregano. Another one of the menu included the Mushroom Ceviche Nikkei, a delicate dish featuring finely sliced mushrooms in Nikkei leche de tigre with smoked avocado. I sat down with Chef Luisa Serna who crafted and curated this unique fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavours and she shared her views with me saying- “As we have come from Peru, we are very proud of our authentic products and spices. We eat a lot of fresh herbs and the base of our cuisine is different kinds of chilies. We like our food to be flavourful; sauces and marinades are everything in Nikkei cuisine. For instance Nikkei Leche de Tigre is the dressing for Ceviche which literally means “tiger’s milk,” and is a bright and spicy citrus-based marinade.”
For the non vegetarians, some of the standout dishes include the likes of Kataifi Shrimps served with Rocoto Chilli Mayo which is made of roasted garlic, rocoto chilli pepper, lime juice and kewpie mayonnaise. Or the crispy chicken karaage taco, a mix of tempura-fried chicken in a seaweed taco shell with teriyaki sauce. The event also featured a beverage menu, including the Maracuja Pisco Sour, a refreshing take on the classic cocktail with passion fruit, and Kintsugi, a gold-infused Japanese gin cocktail with its blend of raspberry and exotic spices.
For a brief but unforgettable moment, this vibrant Nikkei cuisine made its way to India, under the masterful direction of Peruvian Chef Luisa Serna Del Rosario. Delhiites got an opportunity to experience the best of Nikkei cuisine in the heart of India, without having to travel that far away. As they say, you have to taste a culture to understand it.
